CKC

1935 Miller-Ford Indy 500 Race Car

1908Rick Rick Eggers

Home Page: Rick Eggers   USA
Cape Coral, FL, USA

Total Posts: 9 Latest Post: 2018-01-12
Table of Contents

Pin-drive Rear Hubs

Rick Eggers   USA — Posted on The CycleKart Club
Tuesday January 9, 2018 8:37 PM


Cycle kart pin drive hub 001

Cycle kart pin drive hub 001

PIN DRIVE HUB

PIN-DRIVE HUB




. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
Member Comments on Journal Entry: Pin-drive Rear Hubs   ↵
2018-01-09 21:01:32 # 47692
Comment by Dennis Graham
Hope that works for you Rick. But I wouldn't have to much confidence in supporting the wheels in theoriginal bearing location. That's adequate when all the stress is a radial load as in a bi-cycle. A four wheel vehicle puts a considerable side load stressing the hub in the axial direction, which I believe you will findneeds more support. Denny GSandwich, IL
2018-01-09 21:39:39 # 47694
Comment by Rick Eggers
So you're going to tell me that bolting them on through that thin inner webbing that was never intended for that is stronger? Mine are supported on the inner bearing location and the outer lip. How is that not as strong?
2018-01-10 06:51:39 # 47695
Comment by Rick Eggers
Besides that Dennis, how are your front wheels mounted? On the "original bearing location", right, with no additional axial support at all. Do we see a lot of wheel failures on the front?
2018-01-10 13:05:13 # 47713
Comment by Dennis Graham
Hey Rick, not looking for an argument, just an observation.You do have a point about the front only running on the original bearing location. Might be a little different because there isn't as much side load on the front wheels because they are turning in the direction of travel most of the time where the rears are loaded much more in a turn.Time will tell, keep us informed as to how that works out, please.The hubs look nice, I like to see guys that build as much as they can in their own shop.Denny GrahamSandwich, IL
2018-01-13 21:09:06 # 47800
Comment by Rick Eggers
Dennis, After thinking about it some more, I made a minor modification. I made a beefier front cover and shortened the width of the original bearing location so that there's more of a positive squeeze on the outer lip of the wheel. If this doesn't provide enough support in an axial direction, I don't know what will. We'll see soon. See the drawing I posted.
2018-01-14 07:48:01 # 47808
Comment by Dennis Graham
Rick, as I posted, I like it when guys scratch build the parts for theirprojects. You say you're not a machinist but you obviously have somemachine shop experience and access to machine tools. I'm in the sameboat, I've worked in and around machine shops most of my life, but Iwouldn't consider myself a machinist. I've had a mill and lathe in thehome shop ever since I was a kid, so I'm fairly comfortable with them.Since I'll also be making my own hubs, I've got a question about your hub material. You posted, that you ordered some 6061 material to makeyour hub adapters from. Who did you buy your material from??You need at least 4.75" rounds to fit inside the Honda hubs. From McMaster that runs about $108 a foot or $35 for 3" long discs, plusthe UPS shipping for about 20 lbs. The online metal stores are about thesame. Since a metal melting furnace has been on the list for a number of years, I've given a lot of thought to casting my own blanks/billets. These type of parts are just the right size for a single melt
2018-01-14 09:28:30 # 47810
Comment by Rick Eggers
Dennis, I've been buying all my metal on ebay. I only look to Discount Steel or Speedy Metals if there's something I can't find on ebay, and that's not very often. People sell remnants of longer bars. Here's an example. https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-ALUMINUM-6061-ROUND-ROD-1-50-LONG-T6511-5-00-OD-Solid-Lathe-Bar-Stock/282258062065?hash=item41b7e43af1:g:fU4AAOSwepJXVH17You can also buy it by the inch sometimes, like this one.https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-0-5-diameter-6061-Aluminum-ROUND-Cut-your-length-Bar-per-1-Lathe-Stock/263348917053?hash=item3d50d1933d:g:apYAAOSw6NhZqqWv
2018-01-14 10:43:19 # 47812
Comment by Dennis Graham
Bout the same price as McMaster on the 6061. So...I'll either buy plug fromthem or wait till I can cast some slugs, thanks.Yep, I was going to mention the brakes. you'll want to make sure you can slow it down, on the way down. Leave a hole in the floor pan so you candrag your feet if you have to .DG
2018-01-15 20:31:27 # 47858
Comment by Rick Eggers
What are you talking about?
2018-01-15 21:57:08 # 47859
Comment by Mark Henderson
Really Nice work Rick. That does look a lot better than seeing the bolts. Are you going to make knock off spinners for the nut at the end?
2018-01-15 22:31:24 # 47861
Comment by Rick Eggers
Thanks, Mark. Spinners are the plan. I just have to figure out how to make them. So far my only idea is to mill them out of billet aluminum.
2018-01-16 11:01:52 # 47874
Comment by Dennis Graham
must have got ya mixed up with the hill climb up Mt. Washington.Brakes......no.1 priority for the down slide.dg
2018-01-16 11:46:02 # 47875
Comment by Rick Eggers
LOL OK, now it makes sense.
2018-01-16 12:22:05 # 47876
Comment by Mark Henderson
What about having the shape water jet out of Aluminum then machining the details and threads?I use a shop local that cuts 1" stock very nicely. They have to slow the cut speed tho.

Want to leave a comment or ask the owner a question?
Sign in or register a new account — it's free









Join The Club

Sign in to ask questions, share photos, and access all website features

Your Karts

1927 CycleKart Race Car

Text Size

Larger Smaller
Reset Save

Sponsor Links