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John Corey's Journal: 1927 Salmson Cyclekart

jcny John Corey

Home Page: John Corey   Silver Member USA
Melrose, New York, USA
Total Posts: 4 Latest Post: 2017-10-06
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Finally Finished The Bodywork - Mostly.

John Corey   Silver Member USA — Posted on The CycleKart Club
Friday October 6, 2017 9:54 AM


The basic aluminum angle lid frame formed on Shr

The basic aluminum angle lid frame - formed on Shrinker

The first wheel formed flank skin in place

The first wheel-formed flank skin in place

All the formed skins in place and riveted on

All the formed skins in place and riveted on

The finished lid hinged up showing the engine hea

The finished lid hinged up, showing the engine heat vent

The rear view of the finished cover screen and m

The rear view of the finished cover, screen, and mirrors: note fleur-de-lis!

overall rear 3 4 view

overall rear 3/4 view

The other side showing faux exhaust 1 EMT condu

The other side, showing faux exhaust (1" EMT conduit)




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Member Comments on Journal Entry: Finally Finished The Bodywork - Mostly.   ↵
Rated 9 out of 10 based on 2 ratings
2017-10-06 12:51:04 # 44987
Comment by Charles Schultz
Rating: 8/10
Excellent work!
2017-10-06 14:44:38 # 44988
Comment by Zoran R. P.
Rating: 10/10
Hello, John! Nice metal-shaping work, indeed! How you bend L-angles strips? Regards, Zoran
2017-10-06 15:23:37 # 44990
Comment by John Corey
Zoran, the tool is called a SHRINKER. It's a bench-mounted, lever-operated jaw that first clamps a bit of metal at two nearby places, then pushes them together (and there's an opposite piece called a STRETCHER). I got mine at Eastwood, who sell new ones, though there are many other suppliers, too. Not too pricey, but you do need a strong benchtop to mount it. To make a curve like you see in the lid's rim here, you make a number of small shrinks along the length of one leg of the angle. To make a compound bend like in the more central two braces here, a combination of shrinks is done along each leg. More, closer shrinks gives a tighter curve than fewer, more widely spaced ones. I use a doubling method to space mine, starting with a uniform spacing marked "1" with sharpie along the piece to be formed. Then, I add a second set of marks "2" midway between "1"s where I want the curvature tighter. Then "3"s between those if wanting tighter still, and so on until I get the profile I want. With those marks,
2017-10-06 17:16:06 # 44991
Comment by Zoran R. P.
Thank you, John! Now, I remember that somebody explained and even show me that process, some years ago! (on internet, of course)... Now, it looks simple to me but for sure that a lot of practice is necessary for success! I remember that I could make a bow-shape but in negative shape of bows that you made! Only one side of L or T profile was stretched... Quite rare use of such shapes, but was good for our big project, at a few places. We simply used a hammer, lightly hitting metal (steel) to get the proper shape - only stretching one side. Zoran
2017-10-07 13:37:40 # 45001
Comment by Brian Woods
Great Job JohnHow much does your finished CycleKart weigh?Brian
2017-10-07 15:59:52 # 45004
Comment by John Corey
230 lbs +/-10 (cheap scales).
2017-10-07 17:25:46 # 45006
Comment by Brian Woods
My Target weight exactly!Thanks

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