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It begins again!

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rhauck Randy Hauck
Yakima, Washington, USA   USA
1934 CycleKart German "Silberpfeil"
It begins again...I have caught the fever! After just finishing my first build, I am assembling parts for CycleKart number 2. Thought about a 1926-27 Talbot-Darracq for a long time and wanted to build one to have the gulf racing colors, like Steve McQueen in Le Mans, but also thinking of another "Silver Arrow" Mercedes, maybe 1939? Just not sure between the two.


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Hey Rhauck,

Have you got a list of the parts on the tarp and a approximate cost? Looks like all you need is the frame and the skin for the CK. What can you tell us about the front axle? I'm looking for info on hydraulic brakes and I see a setup in your parts, who and what are you using?

OK, I know lots of questions, but with this 1 pic, you have peaked my interest in many of the items that you show. If you would be so kind as to share the suppliers and items that you show it would be greatly appreciated, at least by me, but I'm sure others as well.

Mr fixit
Chris smiling smiley

rhauck Randy Hauck
Yakima, Washington, USA   USA
1934 CycleKart German "Silberpfeil"
No problem here is the list so far:

Heavy Duty Differential Axle 38 inch
#35/60 tooth sprocket
4 17 inch wheels
set of two rear wheel adapters
front axle assembly kit
front leaf springs
brake rotor
brake master and caliper set
brake hose kit
brake and gas pedal assembly
handlebar mirrors Amazon
5/8 miniature flange bearing Amazon
11" rack and pinon unit Amazon
U-Joint (EMPI 3149) Amazon
Grote push/pull switch Amazon
17 x 2.75 inch tires/tubes/rim strips Amazon

I shop around for most of the parts on the sites above and with ebay never know on any given day where things are the cheapest. I will say that for the front axle, wheels, and braking system vintagekart company is the place to go. The owners Name is Jack Gee and he will set you up with very much top notch equipment. I am a very crappy welder and don't trust my own welding above 10 mph...So with that I have to go out and find the front axle from vintage kart. Very well made and nearly indestructible. I toured their facility and drove their karts. Awesome stuff.

Hopefully this helps, the rest is the frame and skin components of which either I have purchased aluminum through or I have purchased balsa wood through everything else wood, bolts, paint, fiberglass, resin, etc.. have all been from home depot or Tacoma screw.

#35 Chain RLV Extreme Gold on Gold
Honda GX 200 engine/exhaust set
TAV 30-75 Torq-A-Verter, Comet After Mkt
Mini/Mid Steering wheel
lock collars
steering shaft 28 inch kit, not welded
throttle control kit
solid tie rod delux kits 3/8-24 x 11"

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Smoky Avatar
Smoky Silver Member Don Schmok
Salmon Arm, BC, Canada   CAN
Thanks for putting that list together, some very good info there.


1929 Riley Bitsa

Hi Rhauck,

That is a great list and it is greatly appreciated by myself and others. You are a real shopper!

Mr fixit
Chris smiling smiley

SteveV Avatar
SteveV Steve Vinson
Phoenix, Arizona, USA   USA
1924 Ford Model T "Viscount Vinson Special"
1927 CycleKart American "Mono Wasp"
I copied and pasted from on Excel spreadsheet, this is what I used on my last kart, prices may have changed.

Steve Vinson's Cycle Kart Build Sheet 1919 Mono Wasp 4/4/2016

Source Description Part # Price Engine Honda GX200 GX200UT2QX2?
3/4" x 2-7/16" shaft HAD-GX200-QX2 no freight $327.97
Throttle Cable 13823 $11.99

Rear Axle 1" x 36" Azuza 1387 $49.99

Brake Caliper Mechanical 13856 $44.99

Brake Disc 6" for 1" axle 13854 $29.99

Axle Bearing Azuza 13803 $42.99
2 hole for 1" axle ? 5/8" Steering Shaft AZ1868-34 $29.99
w/ loose pitman arm 34" long wait to confirm length

? Tie Rods x2 AZ1842-15 $16.99
5/16"x24" x 15" long? x2 $16.99
includes heim joints

Option, standard wheel Polished Black Butterfly Steering Wheel #AZ2293-BLK $53.99

Flat Engine Mount Plate #AZ8190 $9.99

#40Chain x 48" Part #11-9317 $11.35

Sprocket 60 Tooth #4-8249 $21.69
#40 chain

Sprocket Holder 1" axle AZ2561 $15.99
for AZ 2561

Hardened Steel Keyways 1-1/2" x 1/4" x 1/4" AZ8435 $1.84
Locking Collars split (6) 1" ID x 1-3/4" OD AZ8557 6 x $5.99 = $35.95

6 to 1 ratio Comet Torque TAV2-30 218353A $199.99
12 tooth on Viscount special 10tooth x 3/4" bore #40 chain

Pedals brake AZ1806 $6.99
throttle AZ1811 na $6.99 2.75x17 tires Michelin Gazelle M62 #210-075 (x4) 28.99= $115.96

ebay Tubes 2.75-3.00x 17" 217-002 (x4) $9.99 $39.96

Rim Strips 17" 210-500 (x4) $1.99= $7.96 Front Axle Bearings MR190537LLB $20.00
wont need if using kart co spindles 19.05mm(3/4"winking smiley x37mm x 9MM (x4) $5.00

Speedway Motors Quick Release Steering 91032846 $21.99
Wheel Hub 5/8"

NR Racing GX200 Hop Up Kit Stage2HOPUP optional

Vintage Kart Co. Set of 4 Wheels $275.00
Rear Wheel Hub Adaptors $60.00
Front Spindles complete set $60.00
Front Bearing for spindle and wheel $30.00
Front Leaf Springs set of two with bushings $95.00
Local Metal Supply

Frame 1" x 3" thin wall .062 $40.00

Front Axle 1-5/8" or 1-1/2" Dia. Steel Tube Medium Wall .095 $120.00

Spring Shackles and Brackets 3/16" steel plate

Brake Rod Brackets 1-1/2" Angle Iron or 1/8" x 1-1/2" strap

Brake Rod 1/4" Diameter Steel Rod

Wood Tub 1/2" x 48" x 96" plywood maple?

Optional add rack and pinion, sourse tbd
Subtotal $1,822.53

Steve Vinson
Arizona CycleKart Club


rhauck Randy Hauck
Yakima, Washington, USA   USA
1934 CycleKart German "Silberpfeil"
Made a little progress on my new 1934 Mercedes W25 over the past few weeks. This weekend will be focusing on getting ready for Tieton with the first Mercedes. On this new build I plan to really take more time and really try to improve on the first build. I hope at the end of the day it appears much more like the inspiration car.

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dBlast Avatar
dBlast Vince De Blasi
Maple, Ontario, Canada   CAN
Nice start!

I plan on using the same Vintage Kart Co front axle and I was wondering if the mounting points for the springs were at a fixed location and if so, what the measurement is on the axle between the springs. I am setting up my design on CAD and before I get too far in the design this information would be much appreciated.


rhauck Randy Hauck
Yakima, Washington, USA   USA
1934 CycleKart German "Silberpfeil"
there is a bolt hole in the center of the spring. when it is on the front axle it measures 18.5 inches on center. So in other words the measurement from center of the spring to center of the other spring is 18.5 inches apart. The spring is also 23 inches from bolt hole to bolt hole in length.

Hope this is what you are looking for.

I highly recommend the Vintage gear, these things are well made. I have a Vintage Cart front axle on the first cart and when I bought the new one for my newest build the axle is a second generation and is built even better than the first. They are a little spendy and have some weight, but at 40 plus miles per hour, I would rather have that safety factor.



CmdBentaxle Avatar
CmdBentaxle Silver Member Dave D
Federal Way, Washington, USA   USA
1950 CycleKart Italian "1950 Ferrari 166 F2"
Randy, that doesn't look like the Gazelle tread pattern on the W25s front rims.
Are they something different? Oh, by the way. How did that theottle adjustment
work out?

rhauck Randy Hauck
Yakima, Washington, USA   USA
1934 CycleKart German "Silberpfeil"
For the tires yes they are not the gazelle tires, I looked on ebay/amazon and found these for just a couple of bucks more per tire and thought the tread pattern would be a good street/off street tire. From the first car I used pretty nobby tires to mimic the original car but when I run the car on pavement, the pavement tends to eat them up pretty good. So I found these that are little more for street. I don't have the name of the tire with me now, but all I did is just searched for 17" x 2.75" motorcycle tires and this was one of the options that came up. For sure though the Michelin Gazzels look to be the cheapest, and I have seen a lot of carts use them.

For the throttle. No luck, I removed the gas tank and these adjustments had been made. I bought the engine from NRRacing and I bought it already modified to stage 1 so that was part of the change. I am running a #35 chain with a 10 tooth drive gear and a 60 tooth gear on the axle all turned by a TAV 2 torque converter.

I have tried higher octane fuel and a racing type spark plug but still get a max speed of 37mph (by cell phone app) I looked to see if I am getting full throttle and it does look like I am and it does seem that when I am at the 37 mph it seems there is more to gain in kind of sounds/feels like I am at about 3600 rpms at full throttle. Now having said that being that this is the first year in the seat, 37 mph and 5 inches off of the ground it is plenty fast to learn how the car handles. I think after the summer I will take apart the engine and most likely remove the governor, if it is already removed in the stage 1 set up, then I am not sure how to improve short of changing the gearing ratio.

CmdBentaxle Avatar
CmdBentaxle Silver Member Dave D
Federal Way, Washington, USA   USA
1950 CycleKart Italian "1950 Ferrari 166 F2"
Hey Randy,
I like the look of that tread for the steet as well. I think you've got Shinko's on the other machine
as do I and your right, they do wear quickly. They also don't have the best grip on pavement but it's
too late to change now.

That's interesting/concerning about your engine. If the gov. was removed by NR the arm
and linkages would not be there. I'm sure I'm not the only guy following this the would like to
have a look at that motor.


Denny Graham Silver Member Dennis Graham
Sandwich, Illinois, USA   USA
Hey Randy, stop the guess work. Those tachometer/hour meters are
all over the place for about ten bucks, free shipping. They's a battery
built in them, (guess that makes them throw away when the bat goes dead).
So.....all ya gotta do is wrap the pickup wire around the plug wire (inductive pickup)
and stick them to the dash with your Juicy Fruit and away you go.
Even if you only keep it in the tool box, it's a VERY inexpensive way of telling
just exactly what your engine is turning.

rhauck Randy Hauck
Yakima, Washington, USA   USA
1934 CycleKart German "Silberpfeil"
Here are the photos of the throttle set up from NRRacing, Stage 1. No adjustment of the throttle itself, so no screw to back out to allow for more travel. The governor linkage though looks like to me it is already set up like the videos suggest. I think I will get a tachometer and see what it is doing, thanks for that suggestion. But if anybody has any quick ideas based on these pictures of the current set up I am all ears.



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CmdBentaxle Avatar
CmdBentaxle Silver Member Dave D
Federal Way, Washington, USA   USA
1950 CycleKart Italian "1950 Ferrari 166 F2"
It looks like NR completely did away with the stock throttle plate so that screw and everything with it
is gone. Sorry for the wild goose chase. Also, they seem to have re-purposed that governor arm to function differently. What hasn't changed is the black plastic arm on the carburetor. I would just be
certain that it hits the stop both ways, when operated by the pedal. Weight down the gas pedal and
go back and check that you're hitting the wide open stop. There can be just enough give in the throttle
cable to not quite get that last bit. Especially if you have a good stout return spring.

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