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Midget racer/ 27 Track Roadster

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bobwilcox Gold Member Bob Wilcox
Riverside, MO, USA   USA
1925 Ford Model T "Speedway Special"
I used the dc motor from a harbor freight winch.

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Denny Graham Silver Member Dennis Graham
Sandwich, Illinois, USA   USA
Hey Bob, looks like were steeling Al's thread away from him, check
your PM's for this thread.
dg

RROLDSX Randy R
Delta, BC, Canada   CAN
Just tagging along here. Amazing work Al.

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Notso-Chinsee Avatar
Notso-Chinsee Gold Member Albert Lies
Spokane Valley, Washington (WA), USA   USA
Brian,
Yesterday I committed to 3003H14 .032 aluminum for the skin. Today I tried my hand at forming it. It ‘s easy to deform with a missed place hammer strike. Things went well until I mocked up my back. Tomorrow should be better I’ll be back in the shop.
Al



Al Lies
The "Not-So Chinsee" guy


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Notso-Chinsee Avatar
Notso-Chinsee Gold Member Albert Lies
Spokane Valley, Washington (WA), USA   USA
I finished the bead roller and used it making some body panels. What a hoot you get started and time goes’ by so fast almost missed dinner. A few update photos from today.



Al Lies
The "Not-So Chinsee" guy


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Woodysrods Brian Woods
Westbank B.C., Canada   CAN
Hi Al
Your progress looks great!
Mine is slower for now, as I got back to work on my new Teardrop "Kermit" yesterday, after not working on it for the past 11 months.
Not to worry though, I plan to give the trailer and the Cyclekart shared attention over the next few weeks!
I have my son's beed roller here for the next couple of weeks, so I too must make use of it.
Are you planning to beed roll the Model T door shapes into the sides?
Ad is the .032 thick enough to work with?
I bought 5052 H32 .040 aluminum sheet for mine???
Hope it is not too thick or hard.
Brian

Notso-Chinsee Avatar
Notso-Chinsee Gold Member Albert Lies
Spokane Valley, Washington (WA), USA   USA
Brian
I'll see if that is within my ability as I progress using the bear roller. I'll tell you the .032 will be a challenge to weld. I have brazed aluminum if that is the right word before which was .060 1100-0. I think the learning curve is going to be long no doubt, thicker would be a better choice but still a real challenge me being a beginner with TIG.



Al Lies
The "Not-So Chinsee" guy

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Woodysrods Brian Woods
Westbank B.C., Canada   CAN
In reply to # 22621 by Notso-Chinsee Brian
I'll see if that is within my ability as I progress using the bear roller. I'll tell you the .032 will be a challenge to weld. I have brazed aluminum if that is the right word before which was .060 1100-0. I think the learning curve is going to be long no doubt, thicker would be a better choice but still a real challenge me being a beginner with TIG.

Me too!
Hope to get my new TIG welder out of the box ands tart getting some seat time in ASAP.
Have some Kart components ready to go, and a project on my new Teardrop that should give me some good practice.
Good Roads
Brian

Denny Graham Silver Member Dennis Graham
Sandwich, Illinois, USA   USA
Al, don't discount gas welding that aluminum. Kent White posted some
convincing video about the ductility of a gas welded panel on youtube.
I like what you did with the bead roller mods, that is, stiffened it up and
motorized it.
I see the slapper off to the side in the pictures, bet there is a shot bag
some where also? You gonna do some wheeling for the rear quarters?
I bought a cheapo Harbor Freight planishing hammer last year and it
does a pretty respectable job on smaller panels. Ron Covell gave it a
not so bad review a while back. Of course it's not as versatile or accurate
as the TM Industries planishing equipment but it is 1/10 the price.
dg

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Woodysrods Brian Woods
Westbank B.C., Canada   CAN
Hi Al
How is the Kart coming along?
Faster then mine I bet!
Brian

Notso-Chinsee Avatar
Notso-Chinsee Gold Member Albert Lies
Spokane Valley, Washington (WA), USA   USA
Brian
The front view drawing is what I was talking about this morning. I keep going but Not-So fast.



Al Lies
The "Not-So Chinsee" guy



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-03-26 07:28 PM by Notso-Chinsee.


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Notso-Chinsee Avatar
Notso-Chinsee Gold Member Albert Lies
Spokane Valley, Washington (WA), USA   USA
It‘s been a while however progress is being made. The steering configuration created many challenging issues. I used the steering box from an early 1960 Cub cadet that was tired. A little less than two turns lock to lock. I’ll see how that works might be a little slow and all the work for not.
Al



Al Lies
The "Not-So Chinsee" guy


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Denny Graham Silver Member Dennis Graham
Sandwich, Illinois, USA   USA
That's the Ross Steering unit that I was talking about last year Al. I picked
up a few of them which I'm planning on modifying for my karts. I'd like to
here and see a little more about your steering set up. Looks like you are
using, for the lack of a better word, a jack shaft link or idler, to lower the
center line of the pitman arm.
Couldn't you speed up the steering by changing the ratio of the arm lengths
and or pit arm??
I'd really like to here more about it, because I haven't gotten to that stage
and haven't had a chance to experiment with the steering ratios.
Tks
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denbob Avatar
Denbob Dennis Backstrom
Olympia, Washington, USA   USA
1934 CycleKart Race Car "Hudson Indy Special"
Al
I think you will find that you will love that steering. In general it's been my experience that most cycle Karts including
The Hudson steer way too quick, to the point that I am afraid to turn my head too much for fear that I'll steer the car
Somewhere I don't want to go.
I think your car is looking really fine. Keep up the good work. Very much looking forward to seeing you and your car
At Tieton. Regards. Otto.

Notso-Chinsee Avatar
Notso-Chinsee Gold Member Albert Lies
Spokane Valley, Washington (WA), USA   USA
Denny G.
A couple words about this setup. First the steering box needs to be smooth and flawless in operation. I do not believe those were built to be anything more than strong not-so precision. The connection to the box must be ridged. All of the shaft to bushings clearances should be a small as possible any movement other than rotation of the shafts will amplify between the drive and driven cranks. Simply the rod ends provide quite a bit free play in the steering wheel which we are stuck with if you go this method.
There is a multiple between the cranks but I don’t have the ration. I was not interested in speeding the steering up but rather using the full lock to lock nothing more. You will have to work those ratios out for your front axle and steering configuration. I will load up a few more photos later this week when I get back in the shop so you can get a better idea of the configuration.
Al



Al Lies
The "Not-So Chinsee" guy



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-04-16 09:28 PM by Notso-Chinsee.

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