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Fun with Axles

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carChips Avatar
carChips Victor Harnish
Kelowna, BC, Canada   CAN
1933 MG Magnette
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Chip"
1989 GMC Sierra 1500 "Bush Truck"
After having a weekend of running, I've made an interesting discovery. If you have planned to run in the 1 wheel and 2 wheel classes, there is a good chance that a switch over isn't going to be as easy as it sounds. I pulled my rear hub off today to add the key, I plan on some cart fun tomorrow. I had an issue getting the key in on the weekend and when I pulled it apart I found that some dirt and debris got into the keyway and chewed on the axle. I actually had to use a hub puller to get the hub off.

When in one wheel mode, the free wheel needs some lubrication to keep the hub from becoming thermo-welded to the axle. It is this lube that collects dirt and messes up the axle. If you have anything like this planned make sure you protect the key way from dirt getting in there. Even though I had the locking collar on the axle enough crap got in there to make hub removal just a wee bit more fun. I would suggest a washer type affair between the locking collar and the hub, this washer will need a tab to cover the keyway.



S'all for now!

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michaelbikel Mike S
Bridgeport, CT, USA   USA
Similar and different for my first build... confused smiley

Not really sure how this happened in the first place, think I didn't have the hub in the correct position and should have had it closer to the body of the kart...


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carChips Avatar
carChips Victor Harnish
Kelowna, BC, Canada   CAN
1933 MG Magnette
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Chip"
1989 GMC Sierra 1500 "Bush Truck"
My threads are fine, it's the keyway that needed some love to get the key in.



S'all for now!

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Antioch Bob M
Langley, BC, Canada   CAN
1929 CycleKart French "LR2 Special"
Victor, congrats on starting to pull yours apart. I figure to leave mine in the shop for a week before I start.... Amazing number of parts that vibrate off too... Going to have to invest in a lot of nylon nuts etc....



Rosengart LR2 Special

carChips Avatar
carChips Victor Harnish
Kelowna, BC, Canada   CAN
1933 MG Magnette
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Chip"
1989 GMC Sierra 1500 "Bush Truck"
I put it back together, I'm going to drive it some tomorrow. Then I'm going to look at some alterations.



S'all for now!

fly44 Avatar
fly44 Don Nothwang/c
Hillsboro, OR, USA   USA
1921 CycleKart German "Chitty"
1921 CycleKart German "Chitty"
LOL,mine is still in the Toyhauler.It will stay there till I get my shop cleaned up from cutting and grinding on mine.What a great weekend even if I did break stuff.I made new friends,shared some stories and helped others with problems they had.Looking forward to running it again with all my new friends.Just ordered a new belt last night for the beast,now looking for new gears to help out with the weight problem.Seemed like the motor was lugging when I pulled the hill before it broke.Need to fix the front spindles too,seemed a bit loose when I got back from the 3 mile race.I will do my best to get something going here in my area,many different areas we could run our races.Just need the right backing for it

carChips Avatar
carChips Victor Harnish
Kelowna, BC, Canada   CAN
1933 MG Magnette
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Chip"
1989 GMC Sierra 1500 "Bush Truck"
After getting the second key in I took the cart up in the hills for a little frolic. Yup, up there you need 2 wheel drive.



S'all for now!

bobwilcox Avatar
bobwilcox Bob Wilcox
Riverside, MO, USA   USA
1925 Ford Model T "Speedway Special"
1934 Austin America "Austin American Special"
I haven't taken mine apart since I put it together, but I did a few things that I hope will prevent these sort of things from happening.
Upon initial assembly I inspected the hub and found it to have roughness inside like weld splatter. I ran a small ball hone into the bore to clean it up some, not enough work to actually increase the bore though.
the inboard end has a locking collar, two washers and a thrust bearing installed.
The outboard side of the hub has two washers with a thrust bearing in between them. The axle nut is just loose enough to let the wheel turn.
I put a grease zerk [spelling] in the hole from the set screw which I removed. The threads weren't proper, but I just forced it in. I turned the axle so the keyway was aligned with the grease fitting and pumped some grease into it. after my first major outing in the kart I put a little more grease in and wiped off the excess.

bobwilcox Avatar
bobwilcox Bob Wilcox
Riverside, MO, USA   USA
1925 Ford Model T "Speedway Special"
1934 Austin America "Austin American Special"
I just noticed that the problem stems from the area of the shoulder of the 3/4" to the 1" diameter. That's a shoulder of 1/16" for the inside edge of the 3/4" portion of the hub to ride on. When making a hard turn toward the driven wheel there is a lot of force on that small shoulder.
Anybody got any ideas?

michaelbikel Mike S
Bridgeport, CT, USA   USA
So I know this has been asked on here a thousand times before but i'll ask it again...

Why do we only key one wheel?

I think the axle hub setup that we currently have is fine for the keyed side but the free side just gets RUINED.

Wingman26 John Owens
Shawnee, OK, USA   USA
Solid rear axles with both wheels turning the same speed generally don't work well on pavement, everytime you go around a corner each wheel takes a slightly different path and should turn at different speeds, this is why cars normally have differentials. If they are locked together one has to slip to make up for the different speeds and distance they turn.

On vehicles that have all wheel drive and have locking axles, the manufacturers always recommend the axles not be locked on clear dry pavement, they should only be locked on dirt or in slippery conditions such as snow.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-07-23 11:51 PM by Wingman26.

Cobra Avatar
Cobra A Freeman
Overton, NV, USA   USA
OK, what is the absolute widest one could make their frame and still have room for the hubs on a 36" axle and bearing mounted on the outside of the frame?



"Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things."



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-07-24 10:41 AM by Cobra.

LowellR Silver Member Lowell Roemke
Tempe, AZ, USA   USA
I'm a novice at this but I think you might be able to go about 26"-27" to outside of the frame. Remember that you will need to be narrower in front to allow the front wheel to move in during a turn. This picture might give you an idea of what you have to work with. In this picture, my axle is close but not exactly centered on a frame with 20" between the rails.


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jason.okc Avatar
jason.okc jason y
oklahoma city, OK, USA   USA
i am imagining the axel nut getting tighter and tighter as it rubs against the ATV hub and then eventually stripping the threads. i was considering taking two thinner axel nuts and tightening them against each other while allowing about 1/16” slop between the hub and axel nut pair. do you think that will eliminate the stripping of the threads and keep the hub on safely?

jason

In reply to # 12203 by michaelbikel Similar and different for my first build... confused smiley

Not really sure how this happened in the first place, think I didn't have the hub in the correct position and should have had it closer to the body of the kart...

You might try and make a castle nut or just drill the one you have and put a cotter key in it like the front wheel drive cars use.
Just another option to consider.

Mr fixit
Chris

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