As long as each wheel remains at a set height* throughout the measurement, then simply add the four values together now you have weight for each and the total.. * Changing the position of any wheel relative to any other wheel induces reactions in the vehicle's suspension/chassis, thus changing the relative weight. If you have only one scale and need to move it for each measurement, place removable platforms (equal in height to the scale) under each wheel. Swap a platform with the scale to take the measurement for that location. and disconnect any anti roll bars ( sway bars) and jounce the suspension each time you relocate the single scale. I think the failure to compress and let the suspension rebound is what's giving the non-repeatable readings. I would weigh three times and average it for the total, but this gives you the weight per wheel. Source referenced below.

Reference https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/how-to-calculate-weight-of-vehicle-with-weigh-of-each-wheel.616575/

Reference https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/how-to-calculate-weight-of-vehicle-with-weigh-of-each-wheel.616575/

Yeah but if you went the Swiss Cheese route now.....just imagine how light you could get it.

I guess I'm not that competitive in my approach to the Riley. Those days of beating the next
guy to sit on the podium are long gone. I made my mind up from the beginning, that she's
gonna be a 'Two Ton Tessie', and probably weigh in around 300 lb.
As I put it once before, since I won't be running with the big dogs, my number one priority
was durability. I've got this bottom land that beckons me to chase my tail around in it.
That pasture beats the heck out of the tractors when I mow, so I can imagine what
it's gonna do to a Cyclekart. I don't want to be hauling it back to the barn in the
Kubota's bucket every time I take it out for a spin.
So Brian.....have we about satisfied your thirst for TAV rotation??? there really are only
a half dozen positions that it can take without drilling and slotting new holes. Using
a setup like Max-Torque with their jack shaft opens up a whole bunch of new opportunities.

I'm gonna commit harikari here by stretching the formula. I've collected a couple of
Honda 270's, a Predator 301, 420, and even a Predator 670. All with long range plans
to try them out with modified Cyclekart designs. By increasing the wheel base any one
of these engines could be set well in front of the axle and way down in the frame.
The TAV would simply be angled almost straight back keeping the chain very short.
I've even played around with a simple swing axle version of this idea. All this in keeping
with the purpose of self entertainment of course, not competition.
So there, I can't help myself.....just shoot me!!!!! But a stretch version would still follow
the lines of a Cyclekart in my mind, even though it's a bit longer and would have a bit
more snap to it. And I suppose all those ideas give reason as to why I'm really in no
hurry to finish up my present kart.
dg

You've gained about 20 lb since the last weigh-in Dave
I had these numbers in the data file.
Ferrari 156 CK on a set of 4 scales:
Overall weight is 106kgs (233.69lb)
Weight distribution is 35/65 F/R
Overall weight with me in the car is 209kgs (460.766 lb)
I weigh 103kgs (227.076 lb)
Weight distribution is 36/64 F/R

And I think the thread variance police are going to cuff us for
straying so far off course. I do believe that letting my mind
wander is my worst characteristic.
I'm goin' back out to the barn!!!!
DG

I believe those are Dave Lake's numbers from down under.
He's got the 1960 156f1. I've got the 1950 166f2.
Interesting how close our all up weights are though.
Only 3 lbs!

Okay, if you guys want to talk about weight I have another thread here somewhere on driver weight!
And by the way as this is the last night of the year and it is time to fess up...my goal for 2018 was to
lose 10 lbs........so at weigh in today, I found I only have 30 more to go to reach that goal!
Happy New Year!
Brian
PS
Back on topic.....experiments today revealed that I can get the axle in front of the motor and "down"
by clocking it a 6 o'clock and only increasing the Wheelbase to 71".
Will make for a much nicer hanging CK on or off the ICE!

I was at 12 oclock before the rebuild. May be at around 1 or 2 after.

---

"I never lose. I either win or learn.”
-Nelson Mandela

Not if that cylinder has anything to say about it.

Yeah. Its gonna be close.

---

"I never lose. I either win or learn.”
-Nelson Mandela

GN Kim is 194 on certified scales ready to run, fuel and all.

Sorry, I don't understand. The picture and the text of the post don't seem to have much to do with one another, or with the subject matter of the thread.

Not that I mind, I just don't get what's being said.

---

"I never lose. I either win or learn.”
-Nelson Mandela

You're not alone on this one.

I think he's saying his kart is 194 pounds, but you're right about the picture.

Hi Andrew
I think Rhys is just excited that he is ready to run his CK and has broken the, oh so hard to attain
sub 200 lb mark (I believe he has done it before).
Back on topic....clocking is viewed from the drive side of the motor.
With that said, 1:00 or 2:00 o'clock is totally unattainable with a Comet TAV on one of these Honda
(or Clone) motors!
We are waiting for more pictures showing how you thought you might achieve this???
Brian
PS
Thanks Rhys for sowing your 6:00 o'clock mounted TAV.....a very popular choice, and the one I have
finally chosen for my Ice Racer!

What species of wood is that you are using on the frame? Curious as it looks like pine. Thanks. So the magic weight to aspire for is 200#? Man that's light.

Further up Woody was talking about weight, so I threw that in too. Yes 194 lbs. Yes it's not the first I have done under or close to the sub 200 lbs. Getting OT now.
The photo was early in the build but the clearest showing the clocking.
6 o'clock down is an easy option. Wood is UK ash.

I wonder of English Ash is close to Sandwich Ash??? We're losing all of our Ash trees here in Illinois to the
Asian Ash bore so we have a lot of it. I've stacked a bunch behind the barn with the intention of slabbing it
up for various projects. We've a saw mill close by and I've also got an Alaskan saw mill (ripping chain saw)
here, with which I was going to try and saw some myself.
I know a lot of the early Cyclecars and big cars had wood frames and one day I might give it a try. And I'm
betting the reason you, Rhys, used wood was because of the inspiration car you chose, that is a GN.
All the early flying machines at the turn of the century were wood. Even today, quite a few of the
homebuilt airplanes use all wood fuselages. Most of the bi-plane wings were all wood (sitka spruce)
like those in my Pitts Special.
However, there must have been a reason everyone switched over to steel, aluminum and now in this day
and age, composites, to build all all cars and aircraft.
In other words, wood is easy to work with and nostalgically correct for some karts, but one can build an
all metal Cyclekart as light or lighter than one with wood if it's engineered correctly. A good example is
the last kart you brought to Tieton Rhys. As you've just posted, it was under 200 lbs also, and with
more time and some further refinements I'll bet you could still have trimmed more weight from it.
dg