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Denny Graham Gold Member Dennis Graham
Sandwich, IL, USA   USA
1950 Chevrolet 3600 "Old Blue"
1954 Chevrolet 3600
Never heard of lead wire, but then....I'm still learning. I do have tons of "real" solder collected
from my last hobby, i.e., radios from the 20's thru the 40's. I've got stick on steel 1/4 oz. weights
here but there's no way to stick them on the CT90 type rim.
But I still like the brass with a set screw idea better, and that's the direction I'm headed this morning
as soon as the heat comes up in the barn. This 1/2" brass rod weighs almost exactly 1 oz/inch, and
it's easy enough to touch it on the belt sander to dial in just the right weight.

About the torque, which is what prompted me to raise this subject!!!! After hours of truing up the
VKCo. rim and getting it to run to Honda specs, that being .020", I started making 1/8 turn of the
nipples round and round till I got all of the spokes tensioned to 30 inch pounds. Re-checked the
alignment and just exactly as I suspected, the rim moved around quite a bit and now runs out of
true .130". But the concentricity actually got better.
From watching the Moto hot dogs on youtube talk about torquing their spokes regularly, if they
run around the rim till all are at the same tension.....they have to be out of alignment.
To pull my rim back true I would have to dial in a lot more tension on some spokes than those on the
opposite side. This task is truly a three legged balancing act with a lot of compromise in the process.
Gotta go.....the mutt wants her pablum and I need to stoke the coals in the barn.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

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Racie35 Avatar
Racie35 Bruce T
Terre Haute, IN, USA   USA're one state far along is your cyclekart? Any pics?

Denny Graham Gold Member Dennis Graham
Sandwich, IL, USA   USA
1950 Chevrolet 3600 "Old Blue"
1954 Chevrolet 3600
Not far enough along to truly call it a Cyclekart. To many projects keep pushing
it to the back burner. Sold a half dozen things which I thought would clear enough
room so I could bring it down from it's vertical stance to horizontal. Then this buddy
of mine, called Sunday with a deal on a tool, that I just couldn't pass up. So I dragged
home an old Barrett Drum Doktor brake drum lathe, which needs some tender loving
care and some new tooling. I just can't help myself.
But.......I did get to put some time in on the Karts front wheels, which is what prompted
this here tread. Thought I might draw out some old expert motorcycle racers who were
well versed in spoked wheel tuning.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

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MichaelR Avatar
MichaelR Michael Richard
Albany, GA., USA   USA
Who you calling an old motorcycle racer? LOL The lead solder won't fly off unless you're running in the bushes. Not many people notice, but most new M/C tires have an arrow marking where you line up the valve stem and since most are on aluminum wheels you mostly don't need weights. If you're over 150mph check balance anyway, it may keep you from ghosting yourself. You can also melt lead into silver dollar size patties and cut them to weight, then bend them around the spoke and pinch them down. As for the spoke tension my personal opinion is that 48 is a bit too much. You can over tighten them to the point you essentially have a glass wheel that shatters on impact with something. I'd loosen them a bit, and if you are breaking one or two during a hard race just put plastic zip ties everywhere they cross furthest from the hub so if one does break it doesn't grenade the whole set flopping around. You can snip them off afterwards for show. They're real cheap. Running a lower tire pressure in dirt than on pavement will help you save the spokes too. If you get really worried you can send the whole shebang to a wheel builder and let him swap out the spokes for heavier ones. Wheelsmith in the U.S. elsewhere I don't know. Another old trick is to put one run of duct tape under the rubber rim strip as under really, and I mean REALLY stressing the wheels in a turn the tire can actually leave the bead and push that rim strip over so the spokes make contact. Seen it once, heard it a couple times. Actually collapsed a Yamaha RD350 rear in a turn once and this was the culprit. Also put metal valve stem caps on every wheel. It doesn't take a whole lot of centrifugal force to depress the valve stem pin an let some air out. Some of this is overkill on one of these but knowledge saves arses. The balancing beads as far as I know are a gimmick. Just another crutch for someone who doesn't want to do it right. I will say the plastic beads you put in the fuel tank that float so you can actually see how much gas you have in there are awesome. On a side note, I haven't run spoked wheels on asphalt in more years than I care to admit. I had one of the first set of aluminum wheels ever made by a company called MonoTrack. More like an aluminum rim with large aluminum spokes welded in them, but worked great and balance never was an issue. The problem with using these rims is that they were never designed for the side loading they experience on a cyclekart. If you notice on most of the vintage racer photos the hubs are really wide so the spokes pull at a much larger angle to stabilize the wheel in cornering. Doesn't matter what it is if you push it hard sooner or later it will fail. Even if it's made out of unobtainium, or cantaffordium it will still break.

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