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Ben's 1935 "Steve" Austin 7 Special

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Maigret Luc L
Senlisse, Yvelines, France   FRA
Looking great !
Q : no triangulation on the vertical axle supports ?

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Woodysrods Silver Member Brian Woods
Westbank B.C., Canada   CAN
With motor on!


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CmdBentaxle Avatar
CmdBentaxle Dave D
Federal Way, WA, USA   USA
1950 CycleKart Italian "1950 Ferrari 166 F2"
Or, you could be a complete rustic like me and just grab it by the fuel tank and valve cover and slide it back and
forth in the slotted holes, which amazingly works just fine.

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Woodysrods Silver Member Brian Woods
Westbank B.C., Canada   CAN
Dave
Your CK is far from "Rustic"eye rolling smiley
Brian

bensko Avatar
bensko Ben Hanisko
Seattle, WA, USA   USA
Brian - thanks for the pictures. You've clearly put a lot of time into yours! Are the pusher blocks attached to the bolt or are they held in place by always being wedged between the engine and the bolt?

Luc - I was planning to add diagonal tubes between the top of the axle supports and the frame but a) am not sure I have enough tubing at the moment, and b) was wondering if I need it or if I'm just adding weight. Thoughts/experience? I always overbuild things on my projects and am trying to keep in mind that this is only going to be 400-500 pounds total.

bensko Avatar
bensko Ben Hanisko
Seattle, WA, USA   USA
Also, I finished the pedals today. Here are a few photos. I built a sled and mounted the pedals, throttle cable and master cylinder to it. There are rails on both sides and pins that pull out so it can move forward and backward to fit lots of different sized legs.


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Maigret Luc L
Senlisse, Yvelines, France   FRA
Hi Ben,
I know about overdoing it : my specialty !
I always keep thinking this toy should be done like a real car ... forgetting it isn't.
So, probably, your approach is better than mine.
No experience / advice either : I am doing my CK in wood.
I've never touched a welder in my life.
My CK is v-e-r-y primitive compared to yours.

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Woodysrods Silver Member Brian Woods
Westbank B.C., Canada   CAN
I like you "sled" idea for the pedals! Great for grandkids!thumbs up
My motor adjuster blocks are recessed so they will not spout out or reposition themselves while tightening, but they are removable.
Going into town today to split my brake line from master to calliper (I need the flex and the banjo fittings at each end) so I can run a steel brake line between them.
As I am using two rotors and two callipers I am going to use a 1/4" brake line as the joiner and split to 3/16" with a brass Tee.
I will let you know how I make out.
Brian
PS
It is hare to have new ends crimped on for Brake lines (nobody does it anymore due to liability) so we have to tell them they are for "Hydraulic" lines.eye rolling smiley

andrewroudny Avatar
andrewroudny andrew roudny
peterborough, ON, Canada   CAN
1939 CycleKart German "The Vulture"
I really like those little adjusters you have to move your motor back and forth. Cool idea.



"I never lose. I either win or learn.”
-Nelson Mandela

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bensko Avatar
bensko Ben Hanisko
Seattle, WA, USA   USA
Made some progress over the weekend, but not as much as I wanted. Other duties call.

I got the belly pan made and attached. I hammered out two drain channels at the back so when water gets inside it has a place to go. And I figured that since the metal will protrude and is now thinner after all the hammering, I better build some ramps on either side so I don't flatten them out going up a ramp or over a rock. That's my hope, anyway. Field tests will be the proof. Pictures below.

I made some hoops for the body and got all but one put on. More pictures of that once I get the last one on. Then, on to the front suspension!


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bensko Avatar
bensko Ben Hanisko
Seattle, WA, USA   USA
Making steady progress! Got the hoops bent and welded and got the firewall put on. And I got the wheel hubs back from the machine shop. That worked way better than non-stop grinding.

Next up is finishing up the hub/wheel assembly to establish the rear track and then use that number to start on the front suspension.


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