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Building the Schasche - Started engine tear down

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akumabito Avatar
akumabito Joost van Ekris
Smilde, Drenthe, Netherlands   NLD
Wellp, real life got in the way of tinkering on my kart.. sadly, I have no real progress to report. I was really hoping to be much further along, but I still don't even have all the major components. Work has been taking up a lot of time lately, so I havn't spent much time in the garage at all. Pretty much the only good news is that I have a source for leather, enough to cover the seat as well as the sides of the cockpit if I wanted to. Oh, and I also found out that the local discount store carries a no-brand paint that is nearly the exact same color as the original car, so there's that I suppose.

The flywheel situation hasn't changed. It still won't budge, and I still don't quite understand why. I was hoping I could use the bolts to leverage it loose - I put a socket over the crank, took a piece of 6mm steel and drilled 2 holes in it, then used the original bolts to screw it in, slowly tightening it, hoping it would slowly slide forward. Nothing. It actually bent the metal bar I was using. I'm afraid to use any more force on my 60+ year old bolts - don't want them to break off. I've been going over the parts diagrams over and over - there really shouldn't be anything else holding it in place. No locking collar / retaining ring or anything. Just the nut on the front which I already removed.

I'll have to make an improved version of my lywheel tool and see if that works.. if not, I actually don't know how to proceed.. sad smiley

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Topper2011 Avatar
Topper2011 Roland Young
Los Altos, CA, USA   USA
Use Kroil or some other penetrant like acetone and ATF, let soak, then use heat and finally pulling force with a steering wheel puller as mentioned. It took 60 years to get stuck, patience to remove it. Good luck, that engne looks great.



"Man plans, God laughs"

Bow Avatar
Bow Reverend Bow
Yuma, AZ, USA   USA
1929 Morgan 3 Wheeler "BME RIP Special"
In reply to # 13959 by Topper2011 Use Kroil or some other penetrant like acetone and ATF, let soak, then use heat and finally pulling force with a steering wheel puller as mentioned. It took 60 years to get stuck, patience to remove it. Good luck, that engne looks great.

Agreed.

Liquid wrench, Kroil, diesel, WD-40.... Pick one, soak the bolt heads, let it set.... Soak the bolt heads again and let it set....

Heat up the bolt heads, oil them up, let it set....

You'll get them to break loose



Bow

Cut it with and Axe, Beat it to Fit, Paint it to Match

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carChips Avatar
carChips Victor Harnish
Kelowna, BC, Canada   CAN
1933 MG Magnette
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Chip"
1989 GMC Sierra 1500 "Bush Truck"
I have to agree with Roland, a mixture of acetone and automatic trans fluid. Lay it on its side and pour some on, tap the flywheel some and wait, then repeat.



S'all for now!

akumabito Avatar
akumabito Joost van Ekris
Smilde, Drenthe, Netherlands   NLD
Minor update:

The springs are on their way from France (thanks again, Fabrice! You rock!)

Time to start thinking about the bodywork of the car. As much as I love all those beautifull aluminium machines everyone seems to be building, I'm afraid I lack the tools and experience to work with metal. I'm also taking a bit of a gamble with my weird engine, unconventional engine location and untested torque converter idea, so there is already plenty that could go wrong. The body will be a simple square box made out of plywood.

The body of the Schasche is simple enough. It just has 1 big compound curve in the tail section, but that shouldn't be too hard. Then there is the cowl / wind deflector around the cockpit. If the tail section worked out ok, I'll attempt this piece is fiberglass as well.

I'm making some basic drawings in SketchUp to see how much I can simplify the body without sacrificing too much of the look of the car. There aren't too many pictures of the car, especially good side profile pics, so I have to guesstimate some of the lines. Working on a car this small, I've found that a few inches can make a big difference that's what she said...

For my first sketches I'm using dimensions I've found on the site.. wheelbase 66", ground clearance 4 1/2", Currently, the seat back is 25 inch away from the cowl, with the dash being recessed another 2 inch or so. The body itself is now 23 1/2 inch tall (not including the cowling)

In the first drawing, I felt the nose of the car was a little too short.
In the second drawing, I have moved back the cockpit and engine by four inches. Lengthening the nose, but keeping the same overall length.
In the third car, I have also moved the tail section back 4 inches (cockpit and engine from #2, tail from #1)

I'm still not entirely happy about the way it looks. Any criticism is welcome!


Attachments:
Schasche Cyclekart4.jpg    36.6 KB
Schasche Cyclekart4.jpg

moto-klasika Avatar
moto-klasika Zoran R. Pualic
Bern, Bern, Switzerland   CHE
Hello Joost,
Maybe following video-clips shouldn't help, but could be inspirative for further process of design and construction!
As you could see, it is quite fast cyclecar?






Really, it is quite difficult to find good side photo of entire automobile, but if you could joined attached photos, you will have some impression!
There is one clear from above and one artistic aproach!

Ciao,
Zoran




Zoran R. Pualić
(mostly living in Bern, Swiss & happy in my Belgrade, Serbia)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-11-26 05:56 PM by moto-klasika.


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moto-klasika Avatar
moto-klasika Zoran R. Pualic
Bern, Bern, Switzerland   CHE
P.S.: maybe this one b/w from original period?

... just not the second one in spite that had similar position of engine!
(stolen my school-days idea with oil-barrel body and TOMOS moped engine)

Zoran




Zoran R. Pualić
(mostly living in Bern, Swiss & happy in my Belgrade, Serbia)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-11-26 05:57 PM by moto-klasika.

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akumabito Avatar
akumabito Joost van Ekris
Smilde, Drenthe, Netherlands   NLD
Haha thanks Zoran - I already found those photos. smiling smiley

I,m not going to worry too much about the details. With that side-mounted engine it's plenty recognizable already.

moto-klasika Avatar
moto-klasika Zoran R. Pualic
Bern, Bern, Switzerland   CHE
Joost,
Again, engine on a side of the cyclecar!smileys with beer
Zoran



Zoran R. Pualić
(mostly living in Bern, Swiss & happy in my Belgrade, Serbia)

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eerste-autootje.jpg    27.7 KB
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moto-klasika Avatar
moto-klasika Zoran R. Pualic
Bern, Bern, Switzerland   CHE
Hello Joost,
A pair of original photos, quite rare...
Then, a pair with interesting details...
Zoran
(just to keep fire-up)




Zoran R. Pualić
(mostly living in Bern, Swiss & happy in my Belgrade, Serbia)


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schasche cyclecar, article (1).jpg

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akumabito Avatar
akumabito Joost van Ekris
Smilde, Drenthe, Netherlands   NLD
Hi Zoran, the project isn't dead yet! Just delayed a lot by a combination of big expenses, bad luck and a lack of time. The engine still sits in my garage, untouched for months..

During the downtime, I've worked a bit on the body design. I want to keep it very simple - I already have plenty of mechanical nightmares ahead. It'll be a simple plywood box construction. I will probably also use wood for the frame rails. I don't have the tools to cut and weld metal..

As it turns out, the Schasche is actually pretty hard to nail down. In the museum pictures, the tail section looks pretty long, while in the old photos it's actually pretty short. Going off the period photos, it was pretty clear that my original designs were all way too low and long. I have traced an old pic and used that as a basis for my design. It's better, but by no means perfect. I need to find a proper balance between practicality, accuracy and looks..





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2016-03-21 06:37 AM by akumabito.

moto-klasika Avatar
moto-klasika Zoran R. Pualic
Bern, Bern, Switzerland   CHE
Joost,
Maybe Museum example is quite re-created from some parts of original, the same as was case with a lot of classic cars, especially on-offs? Nobody take care about some differences in body style... The main characteristics of Schasche is its side-mounted engine and "nose". Everything else is similar to any racers of twenties?

Did you pain attention on wooden construction of body? Maybe under it is metal chassis frame, but you could make it of wood with additional wooden body acting as monocoque shell?

As was said a few times, it isn't easy task to scale-down elegant and narrow single-seat racers... You could shorten its length, but hardly could shorten width and height of its body – drivers need the same space as at originals, today – often something bigger...
Maybe to keep that longer tail – to have elegant look closer to original?

Zoran
P.S.: I solved two of problems for home-building: now I have a lot of time and have understanding, supportive and tolerant wife, but money...
When I asked my grandfather (teacher in Bosnia) when he would buy me metal pedal-auto, he answered – when he become millionaire playing lottery... never happened! Later I became billionaire (having hundreds of milliards every Friday, but they are worthless!) Old German and modern Argentinean inflation were small compared to Serbian at the begining of nineties..




Zoran R. Pualić
(mostly living in Bern, Swiss & happy in my Belgrade, Serbia)


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akumabito Avatar
akumabito Joost van Ekris
Smilde, Drenthe, Netherlands   NLD
Wellp, it's been two years - time to pull this project from the mothballs and get some work done!

I finally managed to pull the flywheel off. My DIY pullers kept breaking, so I ordered a propper puller. Man, that thing put up ine hell of a fight, even with the right gear! I wouldn't be surprised if this was the first time it has come off in 60+ years.

And so begins the task of hotrodding a 1950s agricultural motor! It is rated fir 4hp continuous. That's no good for racing!

Question.. what is the weight on a stock gx200 flywheel? Just checking because I just weighed mine and this seems pretty excessive. 12.2kg (about 25lbs.)


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Rhysn Rhys Nolan
Tamworth, Staffordshire, UK   GBR
Hi Joost, I can't find the weight of a stock Honda one, but a billet flywheel shows as 3 lbs 2 oz. Close to 1.4 kg.

Woodysrods Silver Member Brian Woods
Westbank B.C., Canada   CAN
So Joost
I don't want to sound negative here........but 25 lbs????
60year old motor?
I don't care what country you are in???..... but if you are serious about CycleKarts, Why are you stepping so far out of the loop??
Honda motors or Honda/Clone motors ere available ale over the world!
I have three.... Honda 200Gx, Predator 212, & Black Clone...........al of which cost me lest than $100,00 US ea.
And I don't live in the USA!
From ARC Racing 3.2 lb Flywheels are available for all of the above (just bought two yesterday #6625 forth Predator and #6619 for the Black Clone) . 2 lbs less than the original flywheels fore these motors!eye rolling smiley
So Why make this so difficult?
Maybe you should use that 60 year old motor for a boat anchor, and save yourself some money and frustration???confused smiley
Good Roads
Brian

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