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Jumping Torque Converter?

John A. Morrison   CAN — Posted on The Cyclekart Club
Saturday August 9, 2025 12:04 PM


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Member Comments on Journal Entry: Jumping Torque Converter?   ↵
Rated 10 out of 10 based on 1 ratings
2025-08-10 07:55:09 # 95186
Comment by Bob D.
In your second pic the sheave alignment doesn't look good. The two flat sheaves need to be in line. With no belt, use a straight edge laid against the sheave next to the engine block and see where it lands on the driven flat sheave.
2025-08-12 16:12:32 # 95207
Comment by John A. Morrison
Just a question, the term you use Sheave does that mean belt?
2025-08-12 16:56:38 # 95208
Comment by Bob G
sheave = pulley or drive mechanism used to drive a V belt
2025-08-12 23:25:34 # 95209
Comment by Bob D.
John, I'm not referring to the belt. The two torque convertor pulleys are made up of two pieces (sheaves). The inside ones are flat and fixed. The outer sheaves move and are tapered. The belt is the same way. One side is flat, the other side is tapered. This is why it is an asymmetrical style convertor. The flat fixed pulleys must be in the same plane. Use a straight edge to align them. Use the various washers to get this right. Also make sure the belt is installed correctly with the flat side toward the flat sheaves.
2025-08-13 07:01:26 # 95210
Comment by John A. Morrison
Just a question, the term you use Sheave does that mean belt?
2025-08-13 11:39:45 # 95214
Comment by Bob D.
Not the belt. The pulley halves are sheaves
2025-08-13 12:37:06 # 95217
Comment by John A. Morrison
It looks like you have identified my problem, looks to be a 3mm, engine side on the drive sheave gap. Im off to get a few washers, should be able to test it shortly, although temperature is reaching over 30+ C this afternoon.
2025-08-15 08:37:21 # 95230
Comment by John A. Morrison
It looks like you have identified my problem, looks to be a 3mm, engine side on the drive sheave gap. Im off to get a few washers, should be able to test it shortly, although temperature is reaching over 30+ C this afternoon.
2025-08-15 13:06:15 # 95233
Comment by John A. Morrison
Hope springs eternal. Got a 3mm washer, had to ream out the centre to get it on the shaft. Tested it for 20 minutes up & down our street, it is better, but when you put your foot down it starts the shudder, 1,2 seconds take my foot off it runs smoothly, step on it, it shudders again. I took the belt to the shop when getting the washer, no need to replace. Note though the slight listing on the outer side after 20 minutes. Maybe it needs a breaking in? Tomorrow going to go to a flat parking area, no real heating of the belt. We disconnected the governor, note the post is still sticking up, anything to do with that?
2025-08-15 13:13:29 # 95234
Comment by John A. Morrison
Image 1067, you can see the copper coloured washer, about 3mm, checked with a ruler several times, alignment seems good.
2025-08-17 08:47:29 # 95250
Comment by John A. Morrison
It looks like you have identified my problem, looks to be a 3mm, engine side on the drive sheave gap. Im off to get a few washers, should be able to test it shortly, although temperature is reaching over 30+ C this afternoon.
2025-08-17 16:15:21 # 95252
Comment by Bob D.
So photo 1067 shows a really loose chain and a shredded belt. Alignment looks better. You need a new Comet belt for sure. Clean all 4 sheave faces of the pulley system with acetone and a rag. Put the new belt on and make sure it is orientated correctly, its labeled so it's clear.
2025-08-17 19:33:57 # 95253
Comment by John A. Morrison
Sounds good, I think the. Belt has gone a wee bit off bevel because the sheave was off by 3mm, the lint i see is probably the belt reseating itself to the new setting. I may take her out tomorrow and run her just to see if that continues, it seemed to be lessening as I drove but I only live on a dead end street 4 houses deep, so a rather poor testing pad.
2025-09-08 11:27:51 # 95436
Comment by John A. Morrison
Well I ran her up & down my street , a 20 degree dead ender about 350 feet long. On the sixth start from the lower end she completely stalled and started rolling down the hill backwards, without good brakes I would end up in Sydney Harbour. So I ordered the new belts 3 in a package for $34.17. Slipped it on and off we go. So seems to work fine, I have noted that when I went to touch the sheaves they were very hot, How hot were they? Well compared to what? I could only tap them long enough to feel the heat. The drive one in particular. Next day I was in a car show and got to drive it around on the flat, slow walking through the spectators waiving at the little kids who love the small car. So how hot should I expect this part #4 219563A Drum Drive 1 to get, will get better as it breaks itself in now that its better aligned, I think the washer 200834A exited the box on shipping.
2025-09-08 12:10:38 # 95437
Comment by Bob D.
The only way you are making heat is from the belt slipping. Did you clean the sheaves with solvent to remove the belt dressing you applied before installing a new belt? What is your gear ratio between the torque convertor and rear axle? If the ratio is to high you may be over taxing the TC.
2025-09-08 15:46:07 # 95438
Comment by John A. Morrison
Ill clean it again, would disc break cleaner be appropriate? The torque converter is 12 the sprocket is 68, so that would be 5.6 to 1, would that be correct?
2025-09-08 15:48:18 # 95439
Comment by John A. Morrison
Or I have a pre paint solution wipe down, might that work better?
2025-11-10 05:12:06 # 95869
Comment by Zoran R. Pualic
Rating: 10/10
John, magnificent CycleKart you build, indeed! Regards, Zoran

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Just A Current Photo Of Kart

John A. Morrison   CAN — Posted on The Cyclekart Club
Friday August 15, 2025 1:24 PM


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Digital101 Introductory

John A. Morrison   CAN — Posted on The Cyclekart Club
Sunday April 19, 2026 8:31 PM


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